My Place at the Table

Book excerpt: Until Lobrano landed a job in the Paris office of Women's Wear Daily, he had no experience of French cuisine. As he began to cover celebrities and couturiers and improves his mastery of the language, his landlady provided him with a lasting touchstone for how to judge food: "you must understand the intentions of the cook." As he began to hone his palate and finds his voice, Lobrano was soon at the epicenter of the Parisian dining revolution-- and became the restaurant critic of one of the largest newspapers in the France. Following his memoir, Lobrano shares his all-time favorite restaurants in Paris. -- adapted from jacket